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Sunday, 27 June 2010 18:51 |
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I hadn´t planned to paddle today, as the winds were expected to continue. I awoke rather late, 0800 I think, and realized there was no wind. I wanted to be paddling not sitting. I called up a man named Steni I had met yesterday at the sailing club who offered to help if I needed anything. I needed a ride! He was very punctual and had me on the water in a bout an hour. I made two medium sized crossings to get over to the east side of the fjord. It was pretty easy going until I turned north and into the wind. I made it into Hofsos and decided to charge my phone, which seems to die quickly on gprs, and took a meal at the only local eating establishment. It was certainly a very cute little community. I tried to leave in the early evening, but the wind had picked up and I wanted to make an early start the next day. I paddled a couple of miles out of town and made camp in a sheep pasture pestered by the always present Terns.
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Last Updated on Monday, 28 June 2010 06:46 |
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Sunday, 27 June 2010 18:47 |
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I had asked that one of the three brothers who live at the farm I stayed at give me a ride into the nearest town, which was Saudarkrokur. I don´t know the brother´s name because he didn´t speak English, but he was very nice and willing to help. He helped me drop the boat at the local sailing club then dropped me at the town campsite. I gave him some cash for petrol and wished him well. Saudarkrokur is a nice town, very clean and well provisioned. I spent the rest of the day stocking up on supplies and trying to decide what to do with myself. I will say I enjoyed the best restaurant meal I´ve had yet, though I can´t remember the name of the place. Artic Char. Yum.
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Last Updated on Monday, 28 June 2010 06:45 |
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Sunday, 27 June 2010 18:32 |
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Be sure to check out the ever growing Iceland 2010 photo gallery by clicking on the link at the top of the page.
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Last Updated on Sunday, 27 June 2010 18:32 |
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Sunday, 27 June 2010 18:26 |
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At this point, the ocean is a breaking mess. With no interest in paddling for the day, I made my way over to the farm to see what was going on. The order of the day was going to be horse rounding and hoof trimming, then Stenni and Marani, with their 15 year old daughter Karen, were going to Denmark for the weekend. I was definitely keen to help round up the horses, so I grabbed my camera and away I went. The pasture their herd of about 25 head was in has a lot of soft ground, bumps, and marsh areas, so a little foot work was needed, which happens to be my speciality. I volunteered to run to the far side of the herd while Stenni´s brother Gunni pushed them from the other end, toward a gate and eventually the road. The horses were only too happy to avoid us, and the round up was uneventful. It was defintiely spectacular to see 25 Icelandic horses trotting down a gravel road kicking up dust. Not knowing much about horses I spent the rest of the morning taking photos, trying to be helpful, and mostly staying out of the way while Gunni expertly trimmed the horses hooves and removed the remaining shoes from last year. It made for a good morning and a nice diversion from cold spray and grinding waves. At that point I was actually quite sad to see Stenni and his family leave for their trip, but they were kind enough to invite me to stay in their house for the night. Talk about trust! I had a good evening of updating the website and cleaning clothes. Gunni and his sister in law, whose name I didn´t catch, came over for a while and taught me about Icelandic summer solstice legends. I think they were trying to get me to embarass myself by running around the house with only one trouser leg! There was only one beer per person in the house, so there was no chance of that happening. At any rate, I was much more enthusiatic about my journey after a day filled with interesting diversions.
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Last Updated on Monday, 28 June 2010 06:44 |
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Wednesday, 23 June 2010 21:26 |
Weather forecasts continute to get worse. This morning the wind was continuing to rise along with the waves. I managed to force some progress for nine miles, but the sea state was quickly becoming unbearable. Winds had been predicted over 20knots, and that was certainly coming true. I made a surf landing at a nearby farm to rest and possibly camp for the night. I am very glad I stopped. The ocean is currently a blowing mess, with three lines of constantly breaking waves preceeding an army of angry white caps disappearing on the hazy horizon. It feels good to be on solid earth. The weather is not predicted to get better for several days, but you never know in Iceland. One of the farmers insisted I take my lunch at their house, which I was happy to do. I declined an offer to stay inside for the night, prefering to be close to the boat in case a break in the weather allows me to get into the fjord and relative safety from the waves. Now I wait.
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Last Updated on Monday, 28 June 2010 06:47 |
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Wednesday, 23 June 2010 21:11 |
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I was on the water by seven. I spent the first half of the day struggling with winds out of the left rear quarter which was only a problem until I managed to properly balance the boat. With food and water supplies constantly changing, I have to move the water bladder around now and then or the boat drifts in side and cross-winds. At any rate, the small rollers were packing a pretty good punch and wearing me out. I stopped for a break at a light house on a beautiful headland. I was hoping to stop and charge my phone, but a group of campers informed me there was no power at the site. One problem I´ve been facing that I wasn´t prepared for is that my solar panel won´t charge an i-phone unless there is full and unobstructed sunlight. All of my other devices charge fine on cloudy days. Luckily, the sun suddenly came out and the wind stopped, so I decided to stop and have lunch and charge the phone. After I got set up, a very nice Icelandic man stopped and struck up a conversation. I was intrigued to find out he had spent all of his boyhood summers at a cottage in the area and that his grandfather was in fact the lighthouse keeper in those days. He took me on a walking tour of the area, pointing out the dozens of ruins from a fishing village in the 30s and 40s. It was quite pleasant to join in his boyhood memories. He had not been back to this place since he was sixteen. It made for a very nice diversion to the weather.
After my delightful lunch with the sun on my back, the winds suddenly picked up from the opposite direction. This gave me a stiff headwind to paddle into, which, frankly, was much better than the rear quarter wind of the morning. The wind was around six knots which is quite tolerable. I pushed on for the rest of the day before settling into a campsite near a remote boat house on a headland inhabitated only by sheep and horses. Just as I finished, a bank of fog rolled in, even as the sun continued to shine. I couldn´t see more than a few hundred feet, but the sun was still shining. 21 miles today.
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Last Updated on Sunday, 27 June 2010 17:37 |
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Wednesday, 23 June 2010 20:50 |
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Well, my journey from Skagastrond did not go very well! The wind had appeared to die down from the harbor, but as soon as I rounded the small headland, I encountered fairly powerful winds and some pretty big waves. The conditions were tolerable, but I knew I wouldn´t be able to continue paddling for long, especially if the wind continued to rise as predicted. At this point, I could see about seven miles ahead, and it appeared that the entire coastline was made up of cliffs except for one small section of beach. I decided to stop after only two miles. The winds did continue to pick up as forecasted and I decided to staff off the water on the 20th. However, the 21st would prove that there were in fact plenty of landing spots along the coastline ahead. At least I was close to town and was able to get a warm if not very good meal from the only cowboy bar in Iceland. I ended up camping near someone´s house. They said it was okay, but it certainly isn´t very much fun camping next to a house when there is no bathroom...
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Saturday, 19 June 2010 15:48 |
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If you´re following my progress on the SPOT John link, you´ve probably noticed that I´m either a really really fast paddler or I have skipped some sections, like, for instance, the entire northwestern fjords (that giant piece that sticks out into the ocean on the left-hand side of the island). The reason for these jumps are two-fold. First, in both sections that I have skipped, the weather forecast was bleak to the point where everyone agreed the paddling was too dangerous to possibly be worth it. I could have waited, but I´m more interested in paddling and exploring than I am in covering every inch of coastline. It´s all been paddled before, and this is my adventure, I´ll do it whatever way seems the most fun! The second reason, and the most important one is that I´ve learned a lot about kayaking since I got here. One thing I learned is that I don´t have the skill level to paddle in everything Iceland has to offer in every type of weather. I came here to challenge myself, not to get myself killed! So, being wise enough to know when I can paddle and when I can´t, I skipped the really hard parts, even though I know some of those sections have some of the prettiest coastline in the country. I don´t feel bad about it. I have an obligation to my wife and daughter to stay alive! So I´m playing it a little safer than I would have when I was single, but for two very good reasons.
Finally, since I´m not going all the way around, I have re-evaluated how long I really want to be away from my family. I´ve decided to meet them in New Hampshire for the second half of our summer break, because I really can´t wait to get my nearly two year-old daughter out on her first backpacking trip along the Appalachain trail that runs through our backyard and to take her canoeing on some of New Hampshire´s lakes and water-ways. I somehow failed to realize how excited I am to start getting her involved in my adventures! I´ve decided to fly to Boston on the 7th of July, effectively cutting my trip in half. Does it seem like I´m quitting? Yes and no. I´m not getting all the way around, which is what I planned, but I´m having a great adventure of my own making, which I think is most important. I´m not a world-class kayaker. I´m pretty much just a regular guy who loves to paddle, and somewhere along the way during this particular adventure, I found some new priorities. Dalal and I are going to make a great paddling team. As for further adventures, I promise there will be more. Perhaps not as long, at least not for a while, but I have some ideas, and my wife almost never says no to my hair-brained schemes. I´ll still be kayaking and canoeing for charity, and I´ll be out here until the 6th. There is still plenty of adventure to be had!
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Last Updated on Sunday, 20 June 2010 16:57 |
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